So in conclusion I am now thinking of avoiding the preservative primer on the few resinous pine uprights and the few old oak sills to avoid the problem you mentioned of activating the resin but definitely using the weathershield preservative primer everywhere else so I am using the complete weathershield system wherever possible.

My client is thrilled with the renovation work so far, Old painted shut bobbly bumpy windows will look brand new once painted but I’m extremely worried about this resinous wood and oak, I’ve only ever painted softwoods before. Caroline You want to use a paint with a different base than that of the primer. For example, use an oil-based primer with a latex paint to take advantage of the rot resistance of the oil primer and the lower VOCs and faster drying of the latex paint. I’m not sure what is best to put over the top of that, I have also read that sapele really needs an aluminium primer to prevent bleed through/resin vapour making the top coat bubble?

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Now the important part, the painting. Using a brush or mini-roller again, apply a first-coat of paint to the MDF nice and evenly to create an excellent undercoat for finishing. Leave this to dry completely as per the manufacturers instructions. The chances are you will require a second-coat of paint, which you should apply so that the MDF has a good paint film applied. Maybe wait until later in the year when hopefully the warping has reduced and apply more top coats? I’m confused about breathable paint like this – does it let water vapour in as well as out? (I was expecting it to behave like Gore-tex!) Hello, I’ve recently removed all the old paint off my staircase using a heat gun, and taken it to the wood and sanded it down.

My plan is to use a fungicidal wash followed by a wood preservative, together with a wet rot wood hardener on the sills, and then to recoat with Sikkens as before. The clean-up was a doddle. Warm water. No more faffing with white spirit!!! I felt like a caveman lighting a fire for the first time!The big issue with MDF is the edges, these are more porous than the top/bottom of the board and need more attention. To get a really smooth non-porous finish on the edges you can use wood filler or MDF edging tape. If the edges aren’t going to be seen simply add an extra coat of sealer/primer and rub down. What Alternatives are There to Specialist MDF Primers and Sealers? Zinsser is one of the better primers you can use in this situation so it’s likely the problem with chipping paint is a combination of two other things. Firstly, it may be that the surface of the wood still has some oil residue which is affecting adhesion. Also, paint can take a long time to fully cure even though it appears to be dry – sometimes a few weeks. http://www.littlegreene.com/media/wysiwyg/data-sheets/TRAD_OIL_EGGSHELL_Data_Sheet_2016_04.2016.pdf They say that water based paints do not solubilise the colours from the wood, as oil based paints often do, and, therefore, use of knotting is not necessary. I read lots about teh issue Dulux (AzkoNobile) had when they initially were forced by EU rules to reformulate their oil base paint VOC mix.

However, if you don’t want to paint your MDF there are a few alternatives to primer/sealer. Effectively, they do the same job - seal the MDF - but in different ways. If you like the natural look of MDF and want to add some protection you can use a clear varnish - choose matt or gloss - to keep your MDF looking like new. An oil-based varnish is the best choice for this. You apply in much the same way as primer/sealer/paint, with a brush or roller. The main benefit of a primer is to even out the porosity of the surface and ensure optimum adhesion so that you get the best possible results from your paint system, but other features might include stabilising a powdery surface or helping to prevent stains ruining your decoration.The terms often get mixed up and depending on where you are in the UK, you might use alternative terms. Just to confuse matters further, we also have primer/undercoats and primer/sealers, which do both jobs! The choice of wood should be the best you can afford really but since you’re going to paint it anyway I wouldn’t go overboard. Standard pine will do the job just fine – avoid MDF though as it will absorb any moisture in the air like a sponge. Bonds to glossy surfaces without sanding; easy to apply compared to some other options on the market The only explanation I could have for this is that it is sorcery! Vallejo Metal Color Review – Range