If you haven't tried on any of these shoes before then (to recap) the Instinct S, and Instinct range as a whole, sit at the wider end of the spectrum within the forefoot, but the narrower end of the spectrum around the heel. They feature a relatively central toe, so aren't radically asymmetrical, and are slightly downturned. It's quite a forgiving last, which fits a wide range of feet, and they don't have to be worn obscenely tight to perform well (snug yes, painful no).

Alpha features the same super-comfortable semi-asymmetric last as the top-selling Joker model. A low tension rand means there is less unwanted pressure on the foot and the shoe retains shape over time. The unlined microfibre upper feels comfortable next to the skin straight from the box.

On the whole, always hard to tell after just a few sessions but I’d say it’s not much different to the original Anasazis (other than the sizing). Then again, I thought the same about the new Anasazis, which some people didn’t like apparently. May be my footwork is so bad that I can’t tell the difference 🤣 On the flipside of this, they are probably the version best suited for bouldering, with a number of features such as the rubber toe patch and improved heel that will be a boon for those in search of a more technical shoe. That said, out the box it isn't overly sensitive, with a stiff forefoot, but we'll go into more detail on that in the section below. Forefoot

Because climbing shoes are designed to be snug, it's easy to think a shoe is too small when you first try them on, especially if when buying your first pair. Even a super tight shoe should 'break in' after a few weeks of use, but nonetheless it is important not to buy shoes too small. As every model and manufacturer fits slightly differently, we've put together a simple guide to all of our climbing shoes which will help you get the right fit first time. Just add or subtract the recommended number of sizes from your street shoe size for your desired fit. It's nice to have shoes that I trust completely for climbing but don't want to pull off the instant I finish. They really do combine performance and all-day comfortCharacteristics: The highest comfort level, thanks to its last, the padding in heel and upper, and the complete 3D mesh lining. For long climbing sessions. Fit in your street shoe size to wear all day or in smaller sizes for increased precision. Don’t use price as your guide. Chat through the type of climbing you do and what you are planning so that we can help you make the best choice. These shoes do feel more 'old school' than some of the equivalents from other brands, but I think they will work for people that have been used to a more traditionally constructed climbing shoe and particularly those whohave fond memories of less techy FiveTen shoes from a decade or so ago.

The Satori features a three-quarter length midsole which comes halfway up the arch of your foot. This allows the shoes to flex a lot, giving maximum power in the toe, whilst still providing some support for climbing routes. The level of support and stiffness which a midsole provides can easily be seen through Boreal's current trilogy of shoes: the Dharma features a full midsole and is the stiffest and most supportive shoe (best for routes), the Satori features the three-quarter length midsole allowing it to flex more and provide some support (routes/bouldering) and the Synergy doesn't have a midsole, allowing it flex a lot, giving lots of power and softness but little support (ideal for bouldering). There's obviously a bit more detail involved than that but it does give a nice demonstration of the power of the midsole!The uppers are virtually all leather with BD's own 'Engineered Knit Technology' for the tongue. The latter feature gives a soft feel and is said to breathe better than a 'solid' togue, although there is relatively little tongue exposed so this difference has to be minimal. It is possible that the leather uppers may stretch a bit, and they do have a certain amount of give which will allow a more flexible fit. Having said that, our pair seem to be pretty good with regard to stretch after a few months' use - ie there hasn't been much. There is a heel tension strap but it has no more power than the Momentum's - comfort for sure, but not the semi-aggressive performance you would expect in a mid-range shoe. By streamlining the key features, Alpha provides a durable, comfortable and great value shoe for any newcomers to the sport. The Joker are at the broader end of the spectrum, so accommodate wider feet nicely. Volume-wise they sit somewhere in the middle, which is a blessing given that this then allows them to fit quite a range of feet, as the volume can easily be adjusted from high to low courtesy of either the lacing or the velcro closure. If you're after something a little narrower and lower volume then Boreal produce a women's model, which would potentially provide a solution - irrespective of whether or not you're actually a woman. On my narrow feet the LV version is a much better fit. There is no bagging in the forefoot and the ankle cuff fits under the ankle bone much better than the original Flagship, which dig my ankles a bit. As per the comments above, it's a bit of a minefield as what works for one person won't necessarily work for another - it all comes down to fit and personal preference.

The fit is basically the same between the two models despite the slightly different soles and rands. Scarpa has a massive range of climbing shoes, and one of the interesting ways they distinguish between models is by fit. As per my comments on Zenith Quattro within the relatively recent review of the Boreal Beta and Beta Eco, it wasn't - in my opinion - the grippiest; however, it was, in turn, much more durable. You can't have everything and Boreal have designed that compound with longevity in mind. There's enough support in the forefoot for decent edging performance, but not so much that you can't get a good smear on slabbier ground. By modern standards they are neither precise nor aggressive, but I do think they offer a good level of foot support for beginners, and the sort of all-round middle-of-the-road performance that should suit climbers operating in the more accessible grades, be that a traddy HVS or sport climbing at the lower end. The Engage lace is a medium to narrow width, with a pretty regular volume. Being fully laced, this shoe will adapt to lots of different foot types and you can reduce the volume. However, if you have a wide foot you may struggle. As ever with footwear, try before you buy. Summary: Sizing - this has definitely changed from the original and is probably the same as the updated Anasazis, i.e. I need to go up half a size.

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New heel rand construction provides a more stable and higher friction zone for enhanced performance on more loaded heel hooks.